8 Horfield to the Forest of Alveston

The Royal Forest of Horwood, latterly known as Kingswood, which was disafforested in 1228 was also known as The Forest of Alveston and there was a royal hunting lodge at Alveston, part of which still exists. This route explores the ancient Forest from Horfield to Alveston.

The original intention of this route was to use the bus lately known as the T2 to link the two ends of the walk. In the absence of this bus, you can use the number T1 from Rock Street to the Centre of Bristol and catch one of the buses up the Gloucester Road to Muller Road Top. This will take you about 1h 20 mins if you are lucky. Alternatively, you could book a ride on the West Link minibus; or, you could get off the T1 at Harry Stoke and walk 4.5K or a bit under 3 miles.

For the fit and impatient (If you miscalculate, you can always bail out in Almondsbury.)From the T1 bus stop at Harry Stoke:Make your way to the ring road and use the lights to cross the Stoke Gifford Bypass and then the Ring Road. Turn right and follow the footway across Coldharbour Road and the North Entrance to the University of the West of England Campus.Just after an electricity pylon, turn left down a shared use path. When the path runs out, cross the road next to the roundabout and turn left on the path just in front of another pylon.Follow the path around a car park and into a track beside Splatts Abbey Wood (on your right.)Splatts Abbey Wood is a remnant of Ancient semi-natural woodland ASNW.)When you come out next to another roundabout, continue straight ahead between the Ministry of Defence enclosure on your right and a housing estate on the left.At the end of the security fence, turn right and follow the path to a junction and turn left around another pylon. Follow the path alongside the railway until you reach Bonnington Walk. Turn right to cross the railway bridge.You are now entering the site of Hottom Wood, which was thought to be a remnant of that Forest of Horwood, which cut Horfield off from neighbouring parishes.Take the third turning on the left into Melton Crescent and then the first turning on the right into Hottom Gardens, which is named after the wood.Hottom Wood was managed as coppice and wood pasture. The wood was divided into strips, which were cut for coppice, part of which was used to make dead hedges to divide the strips and to keep cattle out until the coppice had grown back sufficiently to stand browsing. Each strip was owned by one of the copyholders of Horfield and the were cut on a fourteen year cycle. It was by no means wild wood, but I suppose it might have got a bit rough after the coppicing ceased!Turn right into Rose Mead and take the footpath on the left into Filton Avenue. The wood existed until Filton Avenue was driven through it.Cross Filton Avenue and turn right and then left up Reynolds WalkAt the end, turn left and then right up Boston Road to Gloucester Road and turn left and head towards Horfield Common.On the way, you will pass Zanky’s Deli, where you can get a coffee, or even breakfast if you want it!

From the Inn on the Green, follow the new path across the playing fields opposite the pub and turn right on the footpath around the new houses opposite. Continue around Southmead Hospital to emerge on Monks Park Avenue beside a bus stop. 

Cross the road using the pedestrian lights and go up Sherston Avenue. Turn right at the top and then left up Biddestone Road to enter Monks Park.

Horfield Wood: Here you enter the historic site of Horfield Wood. The park or public open space used to be part of the playing fields of Monks Park School (now the Orchard School). It was never a deer park. For children, of course, the park is an enclosure with play equipment!

If I had had accurate information about Horfield Wood, I don’t suppose I would ever have sought the Forest of Horwood, let alone the Bailiwick of Alveston!

I learnt the location of Horfield Wood from a version of the Tithe Map of 1842 on the Horfield Parish website that has details on it that were absent from the Tithe Map held by Bristol City Council, which I traced many years ago. (Actually it was so long ago that it may well have been Avon County Council!) The person who produced the parish version had access to the key to the map and was able to turn the field numbers on the map into descriptions such as “arable”, “pasture”, “woodland” etc.

This map shows that Horfield Wood was not on both sides of the Common but five hundred yards further north on both sides of Filton Road on the northern edge of the parish. The western half of Horfield Wood is now occupied by Orchard School (formerly Monks Park School). The other half is now the Upper Horfield Estate behind St Gregory’s Church. By 1842, most of the wood had been cleared for agriculture.

Also written on the map is the source of Jones’ idea that people had to form parties rather than go singly at night.

The “tradition”  that “within comparatively recent times it was not safe to pass that way singly at night, and people used to wait for each other to form a party,” stems from the Reverend Samuel Sayer (or Seyer), writing in 1814. He had been perpetual curate of Horfield for a year and was later (1824) rector of Filton. The cause of his anxiety was Horfield Wood on either side of the Gloucester Road on the boundary between the parishes of Filton and Horfield. The wood may have been common land in 1814, although it had been enclosed and cleared by 1842 when the tithe release map was compiled. Jones made a pretty confection out of bits of truth and compared this Horwood with Kingswood Chase, which, at the time Seyer was writing, was infested by the notorious Cock Road Gang. This bunch of ruffians kept local newspapers supplied with salacious copy from Nottingham to Taunton. Some of this was due to the wide ranging activities of the enterprising gang but more, possibly, to the social and political anxieties of the age. There were Romany gipsies and other itinerant workers in Sayer’s day, but their numbers were swelled by the upheavals caused by the agricultural revolution and the end of the Napoleonic wars, which put demobbed soldiers and sailors on the roads. Attitudes towards such people were no better then than now. Whether Horfield Wood was common land or not, scarcely matters. Its position on the edge of the parish meant it was out of sight, and parish beadles could not police it effectively. I am sure stories of brigands in the woods made it easier for the local landowners to take the woods into cultivation.

Go past the “sculpture,” which contains references to the aircraft industry, and follow the path diagonally right to leave the park into Kenmore Crescent. 

Here you are now leaving Horfield Wood.

Turn right and then left down Braemar Avenue to Southmead Road. Turn right and cross the road to the footpath through the BAWA (British Aerospace Workers Association) playing fields. Leave past the tennis court to the right of the groundsman’s house. 

In the old Pen Park playing field, turn right through the bushes to Filton Golf Course. The exact route of the public right of way is not easy to follow. Keep left and follow the path through the bushes to emerge back onto the golf course over a bridge. Keep left up the hill to the top.

Pen Park The green at the top of the hill is on the site of Pen Park House. In the middle ages, Pen Park was probably a deer park,  but by the nineteenth century, it was the site of two estates of Upper and Lower Pen Park. (Lower Pen Park was at the bottom of the hill near Charlton Common.) 

The difference between a deer park and the “country” of a pack of hounds is illustrated by the account of a hunt by a pack of beagles reported in a local paper. The beagles had met at Pilning and started by hunting a hare that led them up and down the railway embankment towards Cattybrook Brick works. This seemed dangerous so the huntsman shifted the beagles to another field where they set off after a hare that took off towards Over Court next to what is now Bristol Golf Club. The hare crossed the line of the modern M5 to Highwood Farm, which lent its name to a road on the Cribbs Causeway Shopping Centre. It crossed the Southmead Road at the laundry next to the hospital (it’s still there) and headed up to the barracks between the Inn on the Green to the Crafty Cow on Horfield Common. The hare led the hounds around the parade ground and then back towards Pen Park House, where they killed it. 

As in a forest, the “country” of a beagle pack had no regard for boundaries, unlike a deer park, which is surrounded by a pale or boundary fence.

Over a very low wall, turn left to a kissing gate. Through the gate, keep right alongside the golf course to a squeeze stile into a small open space. 

Pen Park Hole: Pen Park Hole (pictured) is underneath. There is a locked entrance hidden in the bushes. It is just as well that it is inaccessible, because it is deep and wide enough to lose a double decker bus. In 1775 the Rev. Thomas Newnam of Redcliffe Church fell in and died. His body was recovered 17 days later according to Wikipedia. This source also tells us that the cavern was first explored by Captain Sturmy on July 2nd 1699, who emerged with a severe headache and died four days later, which kept people out for a long time.

The cave has recently been made an SSSI by Defra on the grounds that it was formed by upwelling hot water in the Jurassic era rather than the usual rainwater percolating down through the rock. It also contains shrimps that have been there since before the last ice age. They are probably the oldest community of animals in the UK.

The path comes out onto Pen Park Road. Cross the road to a kissing gate into another open space. 

The line of bushes and trees on the left has grown up along the line of the drive that led to Pen Park Manor House.

Keep right through an old hedge line and turn right to a kissing gate onto Charlton Road. Turn left and use the crossing place to turn right through a squeeze to a viewpoint towards the motorway in the distance. 

Follow the path down hill and round to the left between a wood on the left and some houses. 

The path goes round a house backing onto the wood, after which there is a path into the wood on your left. 

 Go into the wood. and follow the path through it until you emerge at the top of some steps overlooking  the park belonging to Brentry House. 

Burden Institutions: Brentry House was where  the Reverend Burden and his wife established the second of their Institutions for People Requiring Care and Control – this one was a home for inebriate men and women. The first was behind the Golden Lion on Gloucester Road in Horfield. This was a women’s shelter created for the Prison Mission. It was the first Royal Victoria Home and the building is still extant on the corner of Manor Road and Cambridge Road. Later Institutions were established around Purdown at Stoke Park, Stapleton House and Heath House and at Leigh Court and Hanham Hall.

Descend the steps past the house on the right, which used to be part of the institution and go through the gap in the wall into Brentry Lane. 

Turn left and then right and cross over Passage Road into the splendidly named Dragonswell Road. At the end turn right and then left down Challender Avenue and then across a green triangle and Arnall Drive to a footpath past some flats into some playing fields. Keep right around the fenced football pitch to pick up the tarmac path that comes out in Crow Lane.

Cross Crow Lane into the Crow Lane Open Space and turn right just before you cross a bridge over the Henbury Trym (aka Hazel Brook). Turn left off the tarmac path so that you can follow the brook to the next footbridge .

Cross the bridge and take the right fork to the end of Lowlis Close. Go up this road, turn right on Marmion Crescent and then left up a snicket. 

You are now on the Community Forest Path, which you will follow to Easter Compton and beyond.

At the end of the snicket, cross Station Road and turn right and then left up Greenlands Way. 

This area is described as Botany Bay on the A-Z map, presumably because it was once thought of as the back of beyond.

Go more or less straight ahead over Meadowland Road to cross the footbridge over the railway. Turn right and follow a line of kissing gates through to Berwick Drive.

Follow the lane up past Haw Wood – probably an ancient wood as it is flushed with bluebells in spring. 

Continue over the motorway. 

Wild Spaces off the trail: As you cross the motorway, you are entering an adventure zone, very like a mediaeval forest, but rather more democratic.

On your right is a quad bike track belonging to Berwick Lodge Farm, trading as Max Events, which offers a long list of adventure activities for stags, hens and corporate-bonders: archery, assault rifle shooting, axe throwing, blind driving, clay archery, clay shooting, crossbow shooting, human table football, knife throwing, laser clays, paintballing, quad biking, rebel buggies and segways.

This abundance of activities has been stimulated by competition from Skirmish Bristol or the Bristol Activity Centre, which is at the other end of the footpath between the quad bike track and the motorway, on the site of an old army camp and anti-aircraft battery. This offers paintballing (including low impact paintballing, bubble football, clay shooting, quad biking, battlezone archery, axe throwing, archery and Airsoft (whatever that is!) This space has a rather more exciting space for its fantasy battles, including a tank and helicopter. The competition seems to have been good for the older centre.

In some seasons, you can make out Hollywood Tower from the entrance to Skirmish Bristol in the distance. Hollywood Tower is now part of Bristol Zoo’s Wild Place project, which features animals that need more space than is available at Bristol Zoo Gardens. 

John Manwood wrote: A forest is a certain territory of woody grounds and fruitful pastures privileged for wild beasts and fowles of the forest chase and warren to rest and abide in the safe protection of the king. An Anglo-Saxon might have called it a frithgeard. Norman influence introduced the term sanctuary. So one function of a forest was as an animal sanctuary. A similar function is carried out by Bristol Zoo’s Wild Place Project. It ought to be possible to get to Wild Space through the Cribbs Business Centre, but I am not sure that it is. 

From the motorway bridge Berwick Lodge a luxury Country House Hotel is straight ahead. An old English bere-wic was a barley farm and later “an outlying part of an estate retained for the lord’s use.” 

To continue on the Community Forest Path, ignore the footpath alongside the motorway and turn right at the crossroad after the quad bike track. Turn left at a kissing gate and follow the Community Forest Path over a plank bridge and around the edge of a large field. You pass a stile bridge near Berwick Lodge and go along the edge of a wood and then straight ahead through a small bluebell wood into a grass field.  Go straight ahead through the field. Go past one gate and to a pair of kissing gates on a track. 

Jane Couch: To the left the track leads down to Spaniorum Boxing Gym and stables, where Jane Couch MBE, the first officially licensed female British boxer trained. 

To the right is Brockmead Scout Camp, owned by the Spaniorum Trust. 

Continue on the other side of the track to a kissing gate at the top of Spaniorum Hill. 

The views across to Wales from here are quite spectacular if the weather is good. The going in the kissing gate is unaccountably wet and muddy after rain. I often wonder why the worst mud is at the top of hills!

Descend the path through the field, which supports many spring flowers, to a gate in the far bottom corner. Continue downhill to a kissing gate with a steep slope on the nearside and down to an often muddy path beside an orchard that leads to Berwick Lane. 

Turn right and then left on a path that crosses the Lyde Brook. 

The path goes past a house into a field where you bear right to a kissing gate and head towards Compton Greenfield Church. Cross the lane and go through the churchyard and head across the next field to a car park. Keep straight ahead to emerge on the road in Easter Compton.

Turn left to visit The Fox Inn in Easter Compton.

Otherwise, turn right and then left to follow the Community Forest Path to Pegwell Brake.

Woodwoses: You have been on the Community Forest Path since before Botany Bay. Indeed, when I googled Spaniorum Hill I found nearly as many images of the Community Forest Path as anything else. I even found two images of me! The reason for this is the 45 mile Community Forest Path around Bristol provides the course for the Green Man Challenge, and latterly for the Green Man Ultra. People who complete the Green Man Challenge are called Woodwoses (pictured below.) These mythical woodland creatures used to be rare on the internet, but since the Green Man Ultra escaped via social media, they have been spotted by Bigfoot hunters who have adopted them with enthusiasm. 

As a matter of fact, women have proved to be extremely good ultra marathon runners and the record holder for the Green Man Ultra in 2016 was a woman called Claire Prosser. The first double Woodwose is another woman Roz Glover and the second is Dawn Gardner. So there are also female Woodwoses as can be seen in the picture of a female Woodwose with a unicorn.

After you have passed a children’s playground and have come up to an adolescent playground, turn right over a footbridge and follow the right hand hedge to a pair of kissing  gates that take you over a farm track into a wood. Follow the path through the wood turning left at the end to another footbridge.

The path goes diagonally across three fields crossing two similar footbridges and then a footbridge with gates at either end. Turn right to a gate into another field and head diagonally across this field as well.

Mojo Active: The last couple of fields belong to Mojo Active, another adventure company working out of Over Court Farm, they are responsible for some of the atypical features of these fields. Over to the left of the path there is now a surfing lake. It has probably been built in the field where the beagle hunt started that we mentioned earlier.

The direction of the path straightens up here to emerge on Badger’s Lane through a sort of orchard. I would recommend cutting the corner of the Community Forest Path in the next field by heading diagonally up the hill to a gap on the skyline. In the next field keep left to a stile onto Ash Lane, Turn right up to Over Lane. Turn left and then right up a path to Pegwell Brake.

The Banana Bridge is less like a banana since it was replaced during a road widening scheme. However, it is still important because the Community Forest Path crosses the motorway here. It is also here that the Ponds, Pits and Pendulums route crosses this route. That means you could take the T1 bus from Rock Street, Thornbury, follow Ponds, Pits and Plantations to the Banana Bridge and then swap onto the route into the Forest of Alveston.

Before you reach the Banana Bridge, turn left alongside Pegwell Brake. The line of the footpath shown on  the map is constrained by a barbed wire fence and is blocked by a fallen tree and later by brambles, just after it is joined by a footpath coming up through the wood. However, there is an unregistered path through the wood and another through the fields alongside the motorway. In either case, you should end up following the hedge along the escarpment at the end of the wood. 

Knole Park and Princess Caraboo: The escarpment gives you views to Almondsbury Camp, an iron age hill fort surrounding some houses, and the Severn Estuary beyond. The private road into the camp is called Knole Park, the name of a manor house on the site, which, as the name suggests, had a small deer park attached to it on the far side – you went through part of it on the way from Over Lane to Pegwell Brake. A deer park was a noble man’s way of privatising a section of the Forest after the disafforestation of 1228, although I doubt whether this was an early example. It was mutilated when the railway from London to South Wales was pushed through via the Severn Tunnel, between 1873 and 1886. Even more destructive of the park was the Cattybrook brickworks and the adjacent clay pit, which were initially built to supply the railway tunnel with bricks. Obviously, once the railway was completed, the brickworks were conveniently placed to supply the building trade.

It was probably from the section of Knole Park cut off by the railway that the hare was found, which was hunted around the Barracks in Horfield. An excitable reporter claimed this was a seven mile point – that is a straight line measurement from where they found the hare to the barracks. But he must have measured it on the map in kilometres. Using similar technology to that which was available at the time, you have covered 13 Kilometres or eight miles so far.

Earlier, in 1817, Knole Park was the home of county magistrate, Samuel Worrall, who, in spite of initial suspicion, was taken in by Princess Caraboo, an enterprising Devon girl, who managed to persuade people that she was a shipwrecked princess from the Indian Ocean, with the help of a Portuguese sailor. She was expert in archery, fencing and nude wild swimming and succeeded in going to America and back. Born in Witheridge, Devon in 1791, she died in Bristol in 1864 having married Richard Baker. Princess Caraboo is commemorated by a portrait by Thomas Barker of Bath in Bristol City Art Gallery and a blue plaque in Bedminster. Much later John Bird co-wrote a film about her starring Phoebe Cates and Kevin Kline along with a cast of British character actors and Gerry Hall. The film more or less finished off Phoebe Cates’ career, because she married Kevin Kline, whom she met on the set, and retired. The Worrals are remembered for the housing development on the edge of the Downs featuring Worrall Road, which runs from Black Boy Hill to Upper Belgrave Road near Gallows Acre. 

The official line of the footpath goes alongside a house with a barking dog, but everybody uses the gateway above it. Swing right to pick up the enclosed path between the grounds of Almondsbury Garden Centre and a field used by North Bristol Rugby Club at the weekend. 

Enter the grounds of the garden centre near a gate and follow the edge of the escarpment to pick a footpath through some houses to cross the road from the A38 (unless you want to visit the cafe at the garden centre).

Cross the road into a footpath through the wood on the other side. Turn right along the path through the wood that yields views of the parish church and of the estuary framed by trees. 

Keep going until you emerge on a green called Almondsbury Tump beside the Gloucester Road. (@14.5K)

There is an information board explaining the view across to Wales. But the trees have grown too tall to see the view from that point! 

Cross the road into The Hill at the north side of the Tump. 

Almondsbury Tump: This provides a natural break in this route. There are several refreshment alternatives including the Swan Inn and the Bowl, which is down the hill next to the church. The Garden Centre (above) is another possibility. Here are the Swan Inn bus stops.  The stop near the information board serves the T1 bus back to Rock Street, Thornbury. The stop on the other side is where you would get off if you caught the T1 bus from Rock Street to walk the tail end of this route (about 5.6 miles).

Follow The Hill road to the left into a field and follow the right hand hedge into Crantock Drive. 

Go straight ahead into another field. Follow the left hand hedge and turn right at the end to find the tunnel under the M4. 

Woodlands Wood is at the end of this field and is cut by the motorway.

Follow the path across the field to join the path that goes anticlockwise around the new Hortham village to emerge on Hortham Lane near Colony Farm.

Hortham Idiot Colony: The new village has been built on the site of the old Hortham Idiot Colony, which was infamous for housing John Straffen before he became the child murderer (pictured) who was at one time the longest serving prisoner in the UK. The real mystery is why, with an IQ of 58 and evidence of brain damage suffered as a child he was regarded as fit to plead.

Forests have always been unofficial places of refuge for people as well as for animals; but from the nineteenth century onwards, it has been thought appropriate to establish institutions for those who are needy in some way outside the city in a sylvan setting. Many of these were privately owned, but this one was set up by the local authority under the Mental Deficiency Act of 1913, which enacted the recommendations of the Royal Commission that distinguished between idiots, imbeciles, mental and moral defectives on the advice of the Reverend Harold Burden who set up the Royal Victoria Homes.

Turn right on Hortham Lane and then left on a bridle path a hundred yards after Hortham Farm. After a hundred yards or so the path around the edge of the field picks up the Hortham Brook as it enters a culvert under the motorway. Follow the brook as it skirts Hortham Wood.

Hortham: The name Hortham begs the question whether it has anything to do with Horwood. Hortham Wood can be exquisitely muddy, so it is not impossible that a muddy “ham” – Horham perhaps – has picked up a “t” to make the name trip better off the tongue. Hortham Farm is a two hundred acre arable farm that also welcomes caravans (if you are a member of the Caravan Club.) There is also a secure enclosure for storing caravans in Hortham Wood, which also has a circuit of private paths for caravan customers. There are also facilities for Wood Camping and SG Forest Schools. Whatever the etymologists say, Hortham certainly feels like part of Horwood Forest

Cross the access road to the caravan enclosure and follow the bridleway around the perimeter fence. Go through the deer gate towards the motorway. Turn left after you cross Hortham Brook and follow it alongside the plantation until you come to a stile near the motorway. 

At this point, Hortham Brook marks the eastern pale or boundary of Tockington Park. In general a park pale can be recognized by the ditch on the inside and the bank on the outside. Often, as in this case, the park designer made use of natural features, such as streams, which saved labour.

Over the stile, continue alongside Hortham Brook until you come to a footbridge over the M5.

Continue alongside Hortham Brook until you emerge from the wooded strip into a lozenge shaped field. Go over the footbridge at the far end and turn left up the hedge side to a stile into another field. 

Up to this point, you are still following  the pale of Tockington Park.

Over the stile, the path heads for the diagonally opposite corner of the field. Go over the footbridge with stiles next to the right hand gate and head straight across the field to a stile by the gate onto a cutoff section of Church Road. 

On the left as you approach the road stood the Royal Manor owned by King Harold before 1066, which was confiscated by William the Conqueror as spoils of war. For Harold, Alveston was a handy resting place on the way to the ferry to Portskewett in Gwent. William Rufus, the Conqueror’s son also stayed here as we have seen. There was certainly a Royal Deer Park associated with the manor and probably the Forest too. 

Turn left to join the main road and note the remains of Old St Helen’s Church on the left

The two St Helens: There are two St Helens’ churches on this route. A ruined one – only the tower remaining – on Church Road and one on the A38 in  Alveston. There are also two Saint Helens. One was Helena, the wife of Constantius Chlorus and the mother of Constantine the Great, the first Emperor of Rome to make Christianity the official religion. She is credited with finding the True Cross (pictured). The second was the wife of Macsen Wledig (Magnus Maximus), who lived about sixty years later. She is celebrated in “The Dream of Macsen Wledig” – a traditional Welsh Tale in the collection known as the Mabinogion. She had a son called Custennin (or Constantine) and is frequently confused with the other Helen. She is often referred to as St Elen of Caernarfon to distinguish her. The Roman Roads in Wales are called Sarn Helen (or Elen) after her. She is also called Elen Luyddog – “Helen of the Hosts.”

It is quite possible that Harold dedicated the church to Elen Luyddog rather than Helena, mother of Constantine, because of a romantic attachment to his Welsh conquests. Alternatively, the dedication could reflect knowledge of Roman remains at Tockington Park.

From the gate off Old Church Road past the Old Church, follow the right hand hedge through two fields, then head for a path to the left of a large house ahead, called the Loans. 

This path follows the northwest pale of Alveston Deer Park. A nearby farm is called Lawnes Farm, which implies a clearing in a forest. “Loans” is probably a corruption of Lawnes. If you wish to explore the Deer Park further, see the circular route following.

Follow the path through the trees to emerge on Forty Acre Lane. Turn left up the lane to the Gloucester Road  and use the inconveniently placed pedestrian crossing to reach the new St Helen’s Church. 

Go up Greenhill Road to Down Road and turn right to reach the Ship Inn.

The Ship Inn (Chef and Brewer), Alveston BS35 The Ship  is a grade II listed coaching inn, built as a farmhouse in 1589. Its most famous customer was probably Dr Jenner of Berkeley who debated vaccination against smallpox here with other local doctors at their regular meetings.

To continue to Thornbury, head down the hill past the Inn. 

 There is a stone stile on the right just after you leave the village. The path comes out at the back of Thornbury Leisure Centre, which circles round to the left. Cross the entrance road and go up Vilner Lane opposite. Turn left down a path beside a wood, which takes you around the Tesco car park to Streamleaze. 

Turn left and right into Rock Street, where you will find the main car parks for Thornbury, including a long stay car park on the right.